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CLOSE UP MEN - PANT & JEANS N.10 - A/W 2014.15 Trousers, icon par excellence of the male wardrobe, are presented for autumn - winter 2014/15 in a range of proposals from formality to pure nonconformity, taking up the hems even more and in contrast increasing the volume on the sides.
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Inspired by the image of a modern bohemian, romantic and deliberately casual, many designers prefer carrot models ending in massive turn-ups; the pocket is abundant and the ankle on show in the versions by Issey Miyake and Oliver Spencer, while ZZegna proposes them in an ultra-fitted version with maxi turn-ups that are sewn and immovable. There are many proponents of the jogging pants option, beginning with Louis Vuitton and Antonio Marras, who update the classic drawstring sport model in an ultra-chic style. Sporty influences also for the collections by Bottega Veneta and Y-3, where the end of the fleece pants stands out of all proportion, resembling a legwarmer. Volumes are deployed mostly on soft abundant silhouettes, never constricting, relying on the presence of pleats and draping to give the look a laid back air. The variants of Missoni and Paul SmithCombined are with classic hound's tooth check fabrics, checks and Prince of Wales; exaggerated, bulky, shaped like a bag, for those of Henrik Vibskov and Calvin Klein Collection. There are many similarities with the world of motors that bring trousers with a strong matrix onto the catwalk, with reinforced seams and patches, chosen by brands such as Frankie Morello and Topman Design for their city-rider style outfits. Leather, elastic grosgrain assemblies of different materials with shiny / matt effects, multiple stitching give the trousers an ultra-durable look, discreet in monochrome black, yet very powerful. The collections that remain outside the box seem to favour a return to the highly visible high-waist: proposed in this way by Miuccia Prada, applying it to large, long and flared models, almost covering the shoe, with a clear seventies reference. And SoPopular also prefers it like this, accentuating the waist with the addition of maxi belt loops. For Brachmann too, the waistline rises up well beyond the navel, but balanced by a crotch that drops down to mid-thigh. Long live the selvage jeans and different stylistic hallmarks that see them as a utility item one minute, and as a new noble canvas on which to engrave the tailoring signature of the designers the next. The prevailing trend wants them in blue and u-shaped, even if they resist the vintage effects and arduous washes that continue to perpetrate its pure rock essence.