No longer supporting actors, but the main stars of the look, the accessories for autumn / winter 2014-15 are experiencing a time of great visibility within the male wardrobe, the result of continuous experimentation that leads them to excel in choice of materials and futuristic finishes.
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Their style evolution passes through the development of the concept of 'utility', which is essential in making them more versatile, interchangeable and multitasking, transferable to different trends. The bag plays at raising the stakes in size and the line between business and leisure becomes more and more subtle. Oversized models are all the rage with handles and a rigid frame that have much in common with a doctor's bag; with zip opening and double reinforced bottom, we find them on the catwalk of Raf Simons in a street-art version, with hand-shaped decoupage prints applied directly to the leather, but also offered in the more classic version in hammered leather by Bally and Fendi. As an alternative to deluxe leather, fabric trunk bags that stand out for their colour contrasts, with nuances of the season reminiscent of the full-bodied hues of Caucasian kilims are becoming more popular. Burgundy velvet and chenille tapestry work are combined with clean, simple designs, balanced somewhere between decorative and minimalist: this is the recipe suggested by Burberry Prorsum and Paul Smith for their patterned shopper. Shoulder straps are set aside in favour of handy clutches and multi-purpose pocket bags, from the tablet pouches by Lanvin and Dior Homme to the folding cases by Issey Miyake, through to the models by Zzegna in soft leather to crumple up like a bread bag. The cold season requires a covering for the head and the designers indulge themselves accordingly. The dandy allure that has characterised recent menswear collections requires aristocratic hats, with larger and larger rims, offering endless reinterpretations of the trilby, to be worn on the tilt without being dropped completely onto the head, along with many reissues of the British bowler, classical according to Junya Watanabe or ironically animal print for John Varvatos. The scarf gains centimetres and is extended even more, becoming a poncho and stole, with equestrian themes in the double sided model by Philipp Plein, but more and more often presented as a tricot collar to wear only as a gesture, according to the style of Kolor and Dolce & Gabbana. Special attention is also paid to gloves, which evolve with the times becoming new cult objects: those in nappa created by Herchcovitch, for example, leave the thumb uncovered to facilitate the use of touch-screen devices, while Belstaff equip them with fabric windproof sleeves for a perfect seal on the motorcycle.